Olivia Dish

The Hil at Serenbe

In Fancy Farms, Georgia, Local Flavor, Restaurant on July 3, 2009 at 2:21 pm
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Sunset at Serenbe

There are a couple of restaurants at Serenbe (outside of Atlanta) that I’ve been wanting to check out.  I used a recent trip as an occasion to visit one of the them–The Hil.

Actually, I was giving chef/owner Hilary White a second chance.  I’d tried her cooking at another fancy farm and been disappointed.  She’d managed to make some of the juiciest pork on the planet come out dry.  An eyewitness reported that White had trimmed the fat off before cooking.  I had my doubts about any chef who’d do that.

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Lamb two ways

Still, it’s not easy to cook in a strange kitchen at gourmet food events.  Maybe on her home turf, she’d be better.  Plus, my other choices involved places like Outback Steakhouse…so why not?

Glad I did.  I had delicious lamb, two ways–a braised shank and a grilled chop, served atop a pile of wild rice and Serenbe-grown vegetables.

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Inside The Hil

My colleague had roast chicken and mashed potatoes with mushroom gravy.  She enjoyed it all.

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The village at Serenbe

The setting was lovely.  I look forward to going again…though if you are making the trek from Atlanta to visit The Hil, you might want to read what other diners had to say.

Serenbe, if you aren’t familiar with it,  is one of those chichi farms, an alternative to living on a golf course,  I suppose.

I grew up on a farm.  It was a pretty farm, yes, but it was also a working farm, a place where the bush hog was not necessarily hidden from sight, a place where the barns were pieced together and patched with whatever weathered wood or tin was on hand.  There is, I find, great beauty in that.

But farms like this have their appeal too. With Serenbe-raised ingredients on the menu and a casual yet sophisticated restaurant on the “town square, ” The Hil seems to be making the most of it.

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